Shireen Khimani – Ryerson Review of Journalism :: The Ryerson School of Journalism http://rrj.ca Canada's Watchdog on the watchdogs Sat, 30 Apr 2016 14:26:17 +0000 en-US hourly 1 The Fabulous Girl’s Guide to Editing http://rrj.ca/the-fabulous-girls-guide-to-editing/ http://rrj.ca/the-fabulous-girls-guide-to-editing/#respond Mon, 01 May 2006 22:26:07 +0000 http://rrj.journalism.ryerson.ca/?p=4167 The Fabulous Girl’s Guide to Editing You know Ceri Marsh, the Fabulous Girl, don’t you? She’s smart, funny and well mannered. She’s also incredibly stylish, of course – definitely the one you’d invite over to help spice up your wardrobe. If she’s otherwise occupied, you can always flip through the magazine she edits to decide what to wear on that all-important [...]]]> The Fabulous Girl’s Guide to Editing

You know Ceri Marsh, the Fabulous Girl, don’t you? She’s smart, funny and well mannered. She’s also incredibly stylish, of course – definitely the one you’d invite over to help spice up your wardrobe. If she’s otherwise occupied, you can always flip through the magazine she edits to decide what to wear on that all-important first date.

You’ll be in good hands – Marsh is the one who co-wrote (with Kim Izzo) the manual of Canadian style. The 2001 bestseller, The Fabulous Girl’s Guide to Decorum, displayed a quality she’d later hone at Fashionmagazine, one that might make her the odd woman out in her field: the gentle fashion editor. Far from being aggressive, Marsh is the queen of nice.

But even queens like the current Fashion editor-in-chief can have humble beginnings – what’s a future gentle fashion dictator to do but toil at Cinderella jobs dreaming of something better? In true Fabulous Girl fashion, she remains confident and realizes that working as a receptionist and a waitress are mere Jill-Job pit stops on the road to future fabulousness.

And regents like Marsh must also sometimes endure their own ill-conceived career choices, such as spending four years on higher education in the wrong major. Marsh left York University’s film program with the wrong impression – that school wasn’t something to be enjoyed – unaware of the possibility of loving what one does for a living.

Then, several years after university, Marsh gave journalism a try. She began freelance writing for publications such as Toronto Life, Saturday Night, Report on Business and Flare. Her break came in 1999, when she substituted for Globe and Mail fashion editor Leanne Delap, who had gone on maternity leave.

Delap was then named editor-in-chief of Fashion magazine, and she brought Marsh along with her to take on the newly created job position of fashion news director in 2000. Marsh juggled the full-time editing gig with co-writing her Globe etiquette column. “It allowed me to see how much I can accomplish,” she says now. “I’m not afraid of deadlines or a lot of work.”

She and Izzo then completed their style bible (a second book, The Fabulous Girl’s Guide to Grace Under Pressure, followed in 2004). Aside from the first book’s considerable success – spending thirteen weeks on the Globe‘s bestseller list, appearing in The New York Times, The New Yorker, Glamour, Allure, InStyle andBritish Vogue, among others, and securing Marsh a guest spot on The Oprah Winfrey Show and The Today Show – the advice it dispensed has helped not only readers but also its co-author in her current role as editor-in-chief at Fashion, to which she was appointed following Delap’s departure.

Marsh was tested early. “What would the reader of Fashion be like under your direction?” Giorgina Bigioni, vice-president and group publisher of St. Joseph Media, asked Marsh in August 2003, the day she was interviewed for the top position.

“She would be like me,” Marsh replied.

Like competitors Elle Canada and Flare, Fashion caters to Canadian women between the ages of 18 and 49. But features editor Viia Beaumanis says Fashion doesn’t talk down to readers. “We don’t have articles like how to drop ten pounds or how to get kissed,” she says, “as if women can barely think of anything else. We have art, culture, books, travel, design articles, life – we give you things to read.”

A recent issue, for instance, contained a feature called, “When in Paris (or London, or New York), Shop Like the Designers Do,” plus a long report on the history of wearing black. Also, instead of running a visually driven page of the latest handbags, the story discussed purses and bags dating back to 1987, showing how the purpose of bags has changed over the past two decades.

Marsh brought in a new art director, Antony Smith, in 2005 because she wanted to refresh the look ofFashion and reflect current design taste. Chief of copy and health editor Wing Sze Tang says Fashion used to be more conservative before Marsh, but it is now more international and fresh, with more original content and journalism.

The progression is natural. Fashion used to be known as Toronto Fashion, and the magazine concentrated on the local scene of its namesake. Now the “Toronto Shops” section has grown into “Fashion Shops” and includes items of interest from major cities across the country. The features section has also undergone a change. Insights on glamorous getaways and stylish items to buy have replaced past advice columns and quizzes like “What the Stars Reveal About Your Sex Life.”

Staff members say Marsh’s leadership includes more cohesive planning, more lead-time continuity and an improvement in the look. “She tweaks it, she tweaks it and she tweaks it,” says Beaumanis. And the Fabulous Girl attitude has helped her maintain a positive and harmonious work environment, according to Marsh. “It’s made me a considerate manager,” she says. “But, to be sure, you’d have to ask my co-workers.”

When describing her boss, the words “beautifully mannered” and “fair” come to Beaumanis’s mind. Tang concurs, saying Marsh can be disarming because of how easygoing she is for someone in her position. “She’s a very diplomatic editor.”

Diplomatic, yet one who’s not averse to risk. Fashion was once down-to-earth and simple, yet the October 2005 issue contained two pages of female models cross-dressed in tuxedos. The cover images are livelier as well – Claire Danes almost jumped off the October cover, wearing a soft, angelic, silk tulle empire gown by designer Oscar de la Renta.

Slipped under a half-flap, though, came a little controversy. Danes appeared again, this time with an advertisement in tow. “Pantene bought that flap,” says Marsh, who doesn’t think cozying up to a shampoo advertiser on the cover is such a big deal. And, in general, she thinks readers aren’t automatically allergic to advertising. “Many readers of all kinds of magazines enjoy looking at and reading advertising – it definitely adds to the magazine as a whole.”

Another advertising flap was included with the cover of the next issue, December 2005, this time paid for by BiorĂ©. The intermingling of cover star with advertiser could be interpreted as an interruption of editorial flow and it could cause critics to wonder about the magazine putting stress on its fragile relationship of trust with readers, but Bigioni thinks it’s a non-issue. The publisher describes Marsh’s baby as “a fashion magazine and a shopping magazine all in one.”

As well as knowing where to draw the line between editorial and advertising pressure, Marsh knows how to withstand stress from clients. Delap recalls that when they worked together Marsh had this special ability to “switch into polite mode” when dealing with clients. The former editor-in-chief says Marsh would vow: “I’ll polite them out.” It’s a great skill, Delap says, and exactly the kind survival instinct a Fabulous Girl needs in the cutthroat world of fashion magazines.

We tend to expect ruthlessness from those at the top of the fashion industry. Bonnie Fuller, for example, editorial director of American Media Inc. and author of the recently published guide to success for women,The Joys of Much Too Much, in shamelessly embracing sex, fashion, gossip and celebrities, has been accused of betraying women. And Flare editor Lisa Tant’s Barbie-doll image is said to belie her inner GI Joe.

For Beaumanis, though, Marsh demands only that you be equally fabulous. “Ceri has high standards,” she says. “You don’t get away with anything half-assed.”

Marsh says she likes to arrive early and leave late – as late as 11 P.M. when closing an issue. She’s been married to Ben Rahn for just under a year but says they both work a lot. “I don’t really believe in balance, to be honest,” she says. “I love my job and spend a lot of time doing it.”

“Marsh doesn’t expect you to do more than she does,” Beaumanis says.

Which leaves one obvious question – doesn’t Ceri Marsh have any weaknesses?

Beaumanis answers like a true Fabulous Girl:

“She’s my boss and she doesn’t have any.”

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The Fruits of Victory http://rrj.ca/the-fruits-of-victory/ http://rrj.ca/the-fruits-of-victory/#respond Mon, 06 Feb 2006 23:47:29 +0000 http://rrj.journalism.ryerson.ca/?p=4203 The Fruits of Victory Harper’s and Mother Jones have a lot in common with The Walrus. They’re idea-based magazines that have changed their business structures from non-profit organizations to foundations. They rely on charitable status for survival. Except, being Canadian-based, the Walrus had to jump over a few extra barriers to achieve its goal – barriers it may have [...]]]> The Fruits of Victory

Harper’s and Mother Jones have a lot in common with The Walrus. They’re idea-based magazines that have changed their business structures from non-profit organizations to foundations. They rely on charitable status for survival. Except, being Canadian-based, the Walrus had to jump over a few extra barriers to achieve its goal – barriers it may have created itself.

The laws governing eligibility for charitable status in the United States and Canada are similar, which is what convinced Ken Alexander, publisher and editorial director of the Walrus, that his magazine deserved charitable status. Although he has no objection to the distribution of the Walrus‘s American cousins in Canada, he says, “If they benefit from charitable status, we’re not giving Canada the same right. It’s not fair to Canadian magazines.”

The Walrus received notification of its charitable status in November 2005 – just in time, perhaps, as the magazine seemed to be on the verge of collapse. Alexander had been forced to pay expenses and freelancers out of his own pocket, spending his inheritance in the process.

A charity, according to the Canada Customs and Revenue Agency, like a magazine, has two basic advantages. First, the organization can issue official receipts for gifts received. “This reduces the individual donor’s income tax payable, and reduces the taxable income of a corporate donor,” the Canada Revenue Agency website states. Second, the organization itself does not have to pay income tax.

However, obtaining charitable status isn’t easy. “To qualify for registration,” says the Canada Revenue Agency website, “an organization must be established and operated for charitable purposes, and it must devote its resources to charitable activities. The charity must be resident in Canada, and cannot use its income to benefit its members.” Charitable purposes might include relief of poverty, improvement of education, advancement of religion or other uses that benefit the community.

Another domestic magazine that holds charitable status is Canadian Geographic. The Royal Canadian Geographical Society promotes education through its lecture series, geographic programs for children and grants for scientists. However, CG differs from the Walrus in many ways. First, it has obvious educational content, but, more importantly, it made certain that its foundation received charitable status before starting the magazine.

Magazine industry expert Lynn Cunningham says that it “seemed as if the Walrus hadn’t spent time investing the ease or difficulty of charitable status before it went ahead and created the magazine.” She thinks the founders would have been better prepared if they’d determined in advance whether or not the Chawkers Foundation – which had been created prior to the magazine’s October 2003 launch specifically to help finance the Walrus– counted as a charitable foundation.

Alexander’s father bankrolled the Chawkers Foundation. It had pledged to provide the magazine with $5 million-or $1 million annually for five years-with the hope that charitable foundation status was just around the corner. When the magazine later applied for charitable status to secure its long-term viability, it was denied.

Down but not out, Alexander set up the Walrus Foundation to try to show that the magazine deserved charitable status under the category, Support of Schools and Education. While he had little trouble getting a hearing in the press, convincing the government wasn’t so easy. After being rejected initially, Alexander knew due diligence was required. He had to prove that educational learning should not be restricted to classroom settings. The Walrus was allowing for an exchange of ideas and issues, he argued, rather than just people and things. “Ideas and issues that propel democracy need to be out there,” he says. “Education happens in many ways, and it shouldn’t be restricted to areas of specialization.”

Alexander wants the Walrus to play a role in bringing ideas being generated at universities to a larger audience. Otherwise, they will “remain in closed shop between research and records. Schools must have windows.” At an event in November, Alexander put it another way: “As the university is a kind of asylum for academics, keeping them off the streets and out of harm’s way, the Walrus is becoming the same thing for writers and artists.”

The Walrus generally reflects these educational values. Instead of doing the personality profiles that drive so many other magazines, it offers more general-interest material. The February 2006 issue, for example, contains an article with the sub-line, “How one Vancouver artist is breaking down cultural and consumer stereotypes,” and another story about a man wrongfully accused of murder and how it prompted him to consider becoming a regular on the police lecture circuit.

The charity director of Canada Revenue Agency, Colette Gentes-Hawn, says denying the Walrus charitable status wasn’t about being or not being fair. “They had to show they were meeting the requirements,” she says. “They didn’t have proof in the beginning. They were unclear as to how they were promoting arts and education beyond their publication.”

Magazine consultant D.B. Scott seems to agree. In The Globe and Mail he said, prior to the decision being made, that the Walrus barely met the education requirements for charitable status. If the Walrus Foundation achieved its desired status, he said, it would be the exception to the rule, rather “than any sweeping overhaul of the Canadian magazine regime.”

But Geist magazine editor Stephen Osborne disagrees. “There is no rule,” he says, “so there is nothing to be an exception to. All the Walrus case offers is a precedent.”

Of course, by now Alexander has breathed his sigh of relief. “We are transitioning from being a not-for-profit to a foundation,” he says. “There is a level of security for us.” In other words, the Walrus may now access the $5 million originally pledged by the Chawkers Foundation.

As part of its newfound status, the Walrus now holds public events to promote arts and education. The most recent one, “A Johnnie Walker Robbie Burns Day Celebration” – promising toasts, poetry and music in the spirit of Burns on January 25 – drew 150 journalists. Some who attended joked that the only information they really learned was about Johnny Walker Blue Label scotch. Writer Douglas Bell, who was also at the event, says he has to admit he didn’t learn a lot. “They didn’t discuss any issues,” he says. “It was more about light entertainment.”

The Walrus‘s first event, held November 24, 2005 at the Spoke Club in Toronto, featured a high-powered literary lineup. Noah Richler, Ann-Marie MacDonald, Wayne Johnston, Charles Foran and Lisa Moore were on a panel to discuss Richler’s 10-part CBC Ideas series, A Literary Atlas of Canada. The intent was to encourage a discussion of unifying themes in Canadian literature, among other things. The evening went well, according to people who were there. Richler’s series was to be reviewed by Foran in the December/January of the Walrus, which created a little perceptual dissonance. Foran, the reviewer, was on the same panel as Richler, the reviewee, which, on the surface at least, didn’t seem to leave a lot of room for critical distance.

Toronto Star book columnist Philip Marchand, who was invited to the event, wrote a column about the gathering three days later. In “Searching for a ’70s Rubber Soul,” he gently satirized the event (and himself). Mostly ignoring the panel’s thoughts on the country’s literary soul, Marchand cited the babble of Audi sponsors, the prattle about psychographics bringing like-minded people together and the burbling aesthetic judgment of Walrus creative director Antonio “Totally ’70s” De Luca.

But, as Bell says, events like “A Literary Atlas in Canada” and “A Johnnie Walker Robbie Burns Day Celebration” – as larded with marketing shills as they are – fulfill the magazine’s purpose in community building. They do indeed raise awareness of the Walrus and show appreciation for its writers and subscribers.

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